Heat Retention in Cold Frames: What Actually Works
A look at the thermal physics behind glass versus polycarbonate lids, soil thermal mass, and how frame depth affects overnight temperatures.
Read articleNotes on heat retention, venting, and frost-hardy greens for northern gardens where the season ends before you expect it.
Three focused pieces on extending the northern growing season with simple, low-cost structures.
A look at the thermal physics behind glass versus polycarbonate lids, soil thermal mass, and how frame depth affects overnight temperatures.
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Temperatures inside a closed cold frame can exceed 40°C on a bright March day while overnight frost still threatens. This covers how to manage the swing.
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Kale, spinach, mâche, and a few less-common varieties that hold up when temperatures drop below freezing after transplanting.
Read articleShort-season gardening in Canada's northern regions involves specific constraints. These are the practical areas this site focuses on.
Frame depth, glazing materials, orientation relative to slope and prevailing wind, and drainage — the decisions that determine whether a cold frame is useful or marginal.
Wire hoops, PVC arches, and floating row cover for shorter-term frost protection. When they're appropriate and what their limitations are compared to a rigid cold frame.
Canada's northern regions face last-frost dates well into May and first-frost dates in August or September. Understanding local frost patterns is more useful than generalized zone maps.
Soil inside a cold frame behaves differently from open-bed soil. Moisture retention, compaction from condensation, and the effect of mulch on heat storage all change.
Which greens, root vegetables, and alliums are realistic for short northern seasons, and which commonly listed "cold-hardy" crops struggle in practice above the 55th parallel.
Cold frames extend the season by weeks, not months. This site tries to be honest about what a cold frame can and cannot accomplish in a zone with persistent late frost.
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